Changing Strings on an Acoustic Guitar

Here is an instructional video that can help you change the strings on your acoustic guitar...



What You'll Need:

• wire snips
• pliers (maybe)
• a cloth to wipe down guitar
• guitar polish (optional)
• a "string winder" (optional but recommended)

Begin by finding a flat surface on which to lay the guitar. A table works well, but the floor works in a pinch. Position yourself in front of the instrument, with the guitar's sixth string closest to you. Completely slacken the sixth (lowest) string of the guitar, by turning the tuner. If you're unsure of which direction to turn the tuner to slacken the string, pluck the string before you begin turning the tuner. The pitch of the note should get lower as you slacken the string.
Once the string has been completely slackened, uncoil it from the tuning peg at the head of the guitar. Next, remove the other end of the string from the bridge, by removing the sixth string bridge pin (see the pin shown in the left) from the bridge of the guitar. Commonly, bridge pins will provide some resistance when trying to remove them. If this is the case, use a pair of pliers, and gently coax the bridge pin out of the bridge.

Discard the old string. Using your cloth, wipe down any areas of the guitar you aren't able to reach with the sixth string on the instrument. If you have guitar polish, now is the time to use it.

It is important to note that some guitarists remove all strings from their guitar at once, and then replace all of them. I highly advise against this procedure. The six tuned strings of a guitar produce a great deal of tension on the neck of the instrument, which is a good thing. Removing all six strings at once drastically changes this tension, which many guitar necks don't react well to. Sometimes, when all six strings are replaced, the strings will sit impossibly high off the fretboard. Additionally, if you have an electric guitar with a vibrato-style bridge, this procedure can create a whole other host of problems. Change your strings one at a time to avoid a variety of issues.

Uncoil your brand new string from it's package. Note that there is a small ball on one side of the string. Slide the ball-end of the string down a couple of inches into hole in the bridge. Now, replace the bridge pin back into the hole, aligning the carved slot of the pin with the string (see Fig. 2).

As you replace the bridge pin, lightly pull on the string (being careful not to crimp the string with your fingers), until you feel the ball slip into place. If the pin pops back out while very lightly pulling on the string, repeat the process. This may take a bit of practice, but you'll get a feel for it quickly.

Now, very gently pull the string up towards the headstock of the guitar, applying just enough force so that most of the visible slack disappears from the string. Pull the string about one generous inch past the tuning peg you will be feeding it through, and, using your fingers, crimp the string to a 90 degree angle, so the end of the string points in the direction of the tuning peg (see Fig. 3).

Without yet feeding the string through the tuning peg, turn the tuner until the hole in the tuning peg will allow the crimped end of the string will slide straight through it. Slide the string through the tuning peg until you hit the crimp in the string. At this point, you may again crimp the end of the string protruding from the tuning peg, in order to help keep the string in place as you tighten it (see Fig. 4).

Now, we'll begin tightening the string, to slowly bring it into tune. If you own a string winder (see Fig. 5), it will come in handy now. If not, consider purchasing one - they can be big time savers while changing strings, and they will only set you back a couple of dollars.

Begin slowly and evenly turning the tuning peg in a counter-clockwise manner. To help keep the excess slack in the string from acting erratically while rotating the tuner, use the hand not tuning the guitar to create artificial tension in the string. Gently press the sixth string against the fretboard with your index finger, using the rest of your fingers to lightly pull up on the string (see Fig. 6). Meanwhile, keep rotating the tuner with the other hand. Mastering this technique will save you a great deal of hassle when changing strings.

As you begin to rotate the tuner, watch and make sure the wrapped string passes over the end portion of the string protruding from the end of the tuning peg, on the first wrap-around (see Fig. 7).

NOTE: it is normal for the bridge pin to pop up slightly while tightening the string. Use your thumb to push it back down into position.

Immediately after the wrapped string has passed over the string end, guide the string so that on the next pass, it will wrap under the string end. All subsequent wrap-arounds will also wrap under the string end, each wrap going below the last. Avoid having strings physically lying on top of, or crossing over one another. Keep turning the tuner in a counter-clockwise manner, until the string has been brought approximately into tune. At this point, your tuning peg should look approximately like the one in Fig. 8 (there may be additional string wraps on the peg if you left more slack in the string initially).

Although the string has now been brought into approximate tune, you'll find that the tuning will be hard to maintain unless you take a moment to stretch out the string. Grab the string somewhere over the sound-hole, and gently pull upwards for several seconds (see Fig. 9).

Now check the tuning, and you'll probably find that the string has gone somewhat out of tune. Re-tune the string, and repeat this process. Do this several times, until the string no longer goes out of tune (or until the tuning changes only slightly).

Finally, we'll use a pair of wire cutters (or the equivalent) to trim the excess string. Simply take your cutters and snip off the end of the string protruding from the tuning peg. Try and leave about 1/4" of string remaining. Congratulations, you've just changed the sixth string of your guitar. It may have taken you a while, but with practice, the process will go much more quickly.

If you got managed to change your sixth string, then the other five strings will only get easier, as you continue to gain experience. The only part of the process that will differ as you continue to change the remaining strings is the direction you'll feed the strings through the tuning pegs for strings three, two, and one (see Fig. 10). As the tuners for these three strings are on the other side of the headstock, they'll need to be fed through the tuning pegs in the opposite direction as strings six, five, and four.

Because of this, the direction you'll turn the tuners to tighten the string is also opposite. While holding the guitar in normal playing position, turning the tuners "up" (away from the body of the guitar) will tune the string higher for strings six, five, and four. In order to tune strings three, two, and one higher, you'll need to turn the tuners for those strings "down" (towards the body of the guitar).

(NOTE: If you own a guitar that has all six tuners on the same side of the headstock, then you'll ignore this and put all six strings on in the exact same manner.)

That's it! You've learned the process of tuning an acoustic guitar. It may seem overly tricky at first, but after a few full string changes, you'll have the procedure mastered. Best of luck!

Leave your comments if you like the post.
Thanx...
RohiT \m/

What Sort of Strings Should I Buy?

Everyone has an opinion on which strings are best, but let's put aside the discussion of guitar string manufacturers for a moment, and discuss the type of strings needed for your guitar. If you own an acoustic guitar, you need "acoustic guitar strings". If you own a classical guitar, you need "classical guitar strings" or "nylon strings". An electric guitar needs "electric guitar strings". And a bass guitar needs... wait for it... "bass guitar strings".

You also need to consider the gauge (thickness) of strings you'd like. This is where personal preference comes into play, but for beginners, I recommend starting with "medium" gauge strings, and varying from that as you develop a personal preference. An oversimplified rule of thumb is thicker strings provide better tone, but are harder to play.

How Often Should I Change My Strings?

Take a look at the strings of your acoustic guitar. What sort of shape are they in? Are they discolored? Rusty? Are all six strings present and accounted for? If you answered no to any of these questions, or if it's been several months since you put new strings on your guitar, it's time for a string change. New strings make your guitar sound brighter, and generally make it easier to play.

Just like brake pads on a car, guitar strings wear out with use. Old guitar strings often behave badly - they'll lose tuning more quickly, sound less "bright", and give you problems with intonation. Old guitar strings also break, often during the most inopportune moment. Be sure to head into any live playing situation with new strings on your guitar, and several more sets of strings packed in your case, should you break a string during performance.

It's probably not necessary for beginners to be quite as diligent with keeping new strings on their guitar, but changing strings a minimum of every couple months is a very good idea.

RohiT \m/

Changing between Chords

Open chords are typically the first chords that most newbies learn. This is because they are typically easier to play than other chords. Once you learn these chords you will be able to pick up several music books and learn your favorite songs. They are called open chords because one or more strings are played in an 'open' fashion, which means that there are no frets pressed on those strings and they are allowed to ring out.

The pictures directing the chord shapes are shown below. They are pretty self explanatory. This kind of chord might actually help you a lot to grab the basic/easy chords. Grabbing the basic n easy chords is very important just like the foundation of a building.

To start with the left part of each figure which shows the fret board. The numbers on the frets go for ur fingers which u use to nail on them. Pretty simple!!!



The next part on top left of each picture shows the how u can go about holding the chord if ur not comfortable enough to hold em using the the previous fig.

The next section of the fig is the bottom left part. This is a traditional tab notation for chord. To know more about chords u can check out tabs section in this blog.

It is important that you learn all of the open chords and learn to switch between them with ease and speed. U shud practise hard these chords to help strengthen your fingers and hands and also help you switch faster between chords. They will also help build up calluses on your finger tips. These exercises are repitious, painful, boring... generally not a positive experience but the outcome will be positive because as a result of doing them you will be able to play longer and faster.

Here is what you need to do. Start by playing your easiest chord, say for example G major. Strum it for a minute straight without stopping. Next, switch to a D major chord. Strum it for a minute straight without stopping. You are building up endurance, strength and calluses. You are also teaching your fingers how to place themselves on the fretboard. Switch between all of the chords that you know so far. Go without stopping between chords. Just keep playing until your hand and fingers can't take it anymore. Yes, you also need to play the dreaded F major chord. Play that one a long time.

Take a rest after you have gone through all of the chords. Next work on speed of changing chords. Start with G major, play a couple of strums, then switch to D major, play 2 strums, then switch to F major, etc. Again, keep doing this through all of the chords that you know. Do it until you can't do it anymore. Tedious? Yes. Painful? Yes. Worth it? Yes. You will see a marked improvement if you concentrate and do these exercises dilligently.


I am including some chords that can help you catch up in the beginning.
Keep Jamming

N Leave your comments if you like the post.
Thanx...
RohiT\m/

Amazing Guitar Pix

This section is juz for fun...All you outgoing guitar fanatics can post kool guitar pix...It will b fun...

Enjoi...RohiT \m/

Hammer Ons and Pull Offs

First you shuould have a look on this video, then it will be easy to grasp the concept of hammer ons and pull offs. Read on...

These two things refer to techniques employed by the left hand to sound notes without the direct aid of the right hand. A 'hammer on' is when a note is sounded, and while it is still ringing, a left hand finger is used to quickly press down a fret that is on the same string, and close to the original fret. This will result in the sounding of the second note, even though the right hand did nothing but sound the first note. The vibrations that occurred from the sounding of the first note will be carried on to sound the second note. Here's an example. We can place our index finger on the 3rd string, 5th fret, and sound that note. While the note is still sounding, and without moving our index finger, we can use our ring finger to come firmly and directly down on the 7th fret of the 3rd string. This note will then sound, probably not as loud as the first note, but it will still sound. This is a hammer on.
A 'pull off' is basically the same thing, but backwards. We can use a finger to fret a note, and then sound that note. While the note is still sounding, a finger can be placed directly behind the first finger, and then the first finger can be 'pulled off'. In doing this, it is in effect the same as plucking the string with a finger, it creates vibrations. And now the note that is being fretted directly behind the first finger will be sounded. For example, we could place our index finger on the 5th fret, 3rd string AND place our ring finger on the 7th fret, 3rd string. We can play the note on the 7th fret, and then 'pull' that finger off the string, which at the same time, will sound the note on the 5th fret. This is a pull off.
The main difference between hammer ons and pull offs is that pull offs generate vibrations, while hammer ons generally don't. In other words, in performing a pull off, it would be possible to make the second note louder than the first. In a hammer on, we wouldn't be able to do this, because the sound will have died away slightly when we hammer on. Hammer ons and pull offs have a number of uses. They can be used to make a passage sound smoother. Sometimes we don't want to pick every note, because the pick gives a different tone than hammer on or a pull off will.
They can be used to make a passage easier to play. This is true for two reasons. The first is that we can usually do a hammer on or a pull off faster than we can pick two notes in succession. The second reason is that while we are hammering on or pulling off, with two or our left hand fingers, we can use our other two left hand fingers and our pick to do something else at the same time.
They can be used to perform 'trills'. A trill is the rapid succession of two notes. For example, if we placed our index finger on the 12 fret, 3rd string, and then sounded it, we'd get only one sound. But if we continuously hammered on to the 13 fret using our middle finger, and then immediately pulled off back to the 12 fret, we will get a continuous stream of notes, without even using the pick except for the first note. It is because pull offs generate vibrations that we are able to do this. Trills are a good way of ornamenting notes.
Like we said, we can perform trills. If we can perform trills with two notes, why can't we use hammer ons and pull offs between more than two notes? We can. With a lot of practice, we can learn to use hammer ons and pull offs with speed and accuracy, and with this skill, you can learn to play very fast. It's easier to hammer on and pull off to a note than it is to pick every note just as fast. We'll look at some of these uses of hammer ons and pull offs in further lessons. Things to remember from this lesson:
1. Hammer ons and pull offs are a means of using the left hand to sound notes with out using the right hand to sound them.
2. A pull off can generate vibrations(sound), but a hammer on will only carry on the left over vibrations from a previous note.
3. Uses of hammer ons and pull offs include smoother passages, easier passages and trills. Also, with a lot of experience using hammer ons and pull offs, one can use them to play very fast.

RohiT \m/